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> War Museum Weapon Demo, Siem Reap, Cambodia      Upon arriving in Siem Reap, I hired most excellent Tuk-tuk driver Vannda Srun to take me around the area. The first place we went was The War Museum, a collection of old weapons, tanks, and ammo from Khmer Rouge war days. A fitting first exposure to this land of genocide and unthinable atrocity, the experience well introduced the surreal reality of trying to understand Cambodia. Visitors commonly remark in wonder at the friendly, smiling grace of locals, finding that hard to reconcile with the country's poverty and war torn history. But these unique people, generations away from the horrible crimes, seem outwardly to effectively distance themselves from the emotional trauma, perhaps in self preservation. Or perhaps their county's gruesome past has simply assimilated into their perspective of normal, all they have ever known. I can't claim to comprehend their unthinkable past and it's effects on their current lives, but it does compel a surrealistic aspect to being in Cambodia. As Vannda showed me around the weapons that devastated their land, killed and maimed their relatives and friends, he bounced around as if it was his playground, climbing into tanks and presenting smiling poses for me and my camera. They are as frequently commented, a most friendly and gracious people.
> War Museum, Siem Reap, Cambodia A visit to Cambodia forces intimate exposure to the ravages of war. Land mines not yet removed still present real danger when wandering off beaten paths. This is one place to stay on travelled trails, as in Laos where abundant unexploded ordinance still dots the more rustic terrain. The Cambodian population appears quite youthful and simple, as the Khmer Rouge genocide eliminated most skilled, educated and non-peasant persons. Amputees abound, many begging, but most just getting on with their lives. For all their hardship, the people are incredibly welcoming and carry amazing grace. Here the war museum is a simple place with multiple weapons you can hold, as well as those tanks to climb aboard. Quite surreal, how such reminders of death and destruction can be so casual to locals while so troubling to visitors from afar.
> Ta Prom Jungle Temple , Angkor, Cambodia Known as the 'Jungle Temple', Ta Prom's architecture and sculpture merges with the jungle growing around it in curious ways. Here a tower of roots climbs and engulfs a stone wall next to a stone tower. Less tourists visit here than the main structures, but it's ever more popular for that 'Tomb Raider' look, which movie was partially filmed here.
> Ta Prom Umbrella, Angkor, Cambodia It's often very hot and humid at Angkor, but the shade of these ruins offers cool mid-day retreat from the hot, hard work of sightseeing. Umbrellas and parasols are commonplace in SE Asia as much to protect from the sun as rain, since fair complexions are most highly treasured throughout the area. Mid-day relaxation is also in good local form, doing the early morning and late afternoon thing to beat the heat.
> Temple Elephants, Angkor Thom South Gate, Cambodia Elephants cruise the paths of Angkor at the behest of mahouts in search of passengers wanting a Disneyland way to see Angkor. For most visitors, however, getting around means lots of exploring on foot, with tuk-tuks taking you there and from site to site. Most elephants seemed in need of much wanted passengers, though, since the tuk-tuks excel for bigger range of travel while adding sun and rain protection to that natural open air feeling. But the ruins should make a great backdrop for shorter, bumpy elephant rides if you're tired of walking or looking for that elephant ride thrill. In this approach to the South Gate, the most used entrance to Angkor Thom, the roadway has parallel sets of 54 statuary 'divas" (kind gods) on the left side of the road, and 54 'asuras' (demons) on the right.
> Bandana for the Tuk-tuks, outside Siem Reap, Cambodia       On my way out of Siem Reap in route to Phnom Kulen. Tuk-tuk part of the way, then drop the trailer to ride double on the bike through the tough stuff. Be sure to bring a bandana or three to protect from serious road dust around Siem Reap and in the Cambodian countryside. Or in Cambodia buy a krama, a traditional multi purpose garment worn by men, women and children to protect from dust and sun, carry babies, patch tires, act as tow rope, and a plethora of other imaginative uses. Parallel concept in Alaska might be duct tape, although maybe not as bandanna.
> Cute Kid, Angkor Wat, Cambodia Among the ruins there's no shortage of cute children wandering alone or with parents, selling beverages, t-shirts and souveniers. These kids can get very savvy from all the visitor traffic, and they learn the English that enables a better life from tourist commerce. Sharp parents aren't beyond enlisting the cuteness of their kids to soften visitor's reluctance to buy. Many visitors get put off by all the mercenary activity following them around, and become more distant and cold than otherwise might be the case. But engaging the kids on another playful, interactive level often works to change the dynamic from persistent sales pitch to fun human interaction. Sometimes not, however, when there are too many sellers to engage individually. For me it's important to keep engaging, though, so as not to miss out on the real people and real places for all the commercialism, to avoid personal detachment while being there. Smiles and laughter always seem the best option, with cold indifference kept in reserve for more challenging moments.
> Pink Sandstone Corridor, Banteay Srei, Cambodia As evening approaches, beautiful pink sandstone at Banteay Srei provides another pleasant alternative to the hubbub of Angkor Wat, with it's own smaller scale hubbub. The distance to get there is worth the trip to see the pleasing variant in colors, the more intricate carvings, and to get Banteay Srei's more intimate feel away from the Angkor Wat crowds.
> Flower Lady, Phnom Penh, Cambodia      Along the Tonle Sap River Promenade, Phnom Penh comes alive before dawn. Cool morniing hours are prime for individual and group exercise, martial arts, joggers, strollers, people that live along the banks, pigeons, and flower ladies. This one wearing classic gingham krama. The riverfront is alive with activity, in the evening turning into venue for soccer-like shuttle-cock games, later evolving toward community dance. They loved it when visitors joined in.
Flower Lady, Phnom Penh, Cambodia     

Along the Tonle Sap River Promenade, Phnom Penh comes alive before dawn. Cool morniing hours are prime for individual and group exercise, martial arts, joggers, strollers, people that live along the banks, pigeons, and flower ladies. This one wearing classic gingham krama. The riverfront is alive with activity, in the evening turning into venue for soccer-like shuttle-cock games, later evolving toward community dance. They loved it when visitors joined in.
> Flower Lady, Phnom Penh, Cambodia      Along the Tonle Sap River Promenade, Phnom Penh comes alive before dawn. Cool morniing hours are prime for individual and group exercise, martial arts, joggers, strollers, people that live along the banks, pigeons, and flower ladies. This one wearing classic gingham krama. The riverfront is alive with activity, in the evening turning into venue for soccer-like shuttle-cock games, later evolving toward community dance. They loved it when visitors joined in.
Flower Lady, Phnom Penh, Cambodia     

Along the Tonle Sap River Promenade, Phnom Penh comes alive before dawn. Cool morniing hours are prime for individual and group exercise, martial arts, joggers, strollers, people that live along the banks, pigeons, and flower ladies. This one wearing classic gingham krama. The riverfront is alive with activity, in the evening turning into venue for soccer-like shuttle-cock games, later evolving toward community dance. They loved it when visitors joined in.
Photo by: photographie-irie · see photo in gallery
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