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WESTERN HIGHLANDS OF GUATEMALA
For the last several years my wife and I have joined members of the Saint George Island United Methodist Church of St. George Island, Florida, on a mission trip to the Lake Atitlan region of Western Guatemala. Our primary emphasis is to provide medical care to several of the indigenous Mayan villages surrounding Lake Atitlan. In June of 2007 we administered medical care to more than 400 individuals. In June of 2008, we will be joined by Canadensis United Methodist Chirch of Candadensis, Pennsylvania, located in the Pocono Mountains of Northeastern Pennsylvania.

More than one-third of the inhabitants of Central America live in this rugged land of mountains and volcanoes, beautiful lakes, and lush vegetation. Guatemala City is the capital and largest city. Situated in the highlands, it dominates all aspects of national life.

Unlike many Latin American countries, Guatemala has a large indigenous population. Close to half the people are descendants of the Maya, the Indians whose advanced civilization once dominated the region.

Maya culture is deeply rooted in the rural highlands of Guatemala, where many indigenous people speak a Mayan language, follow traditional religious and village customs, and continue to produce traditional textiles and other handicrafts. The two cultures have made Guatemala a complex society that is deeply divided between rich and poor. This division has produced much of the tension and violence that have marked Guatemala’s history.

The indigenous people of Guatemala have maintained a distinct identity, centered on lands and villages in the western highlands. Many speak a Mayan language rather than Spanish and follow spiritual practices from before the Spanish conquest, sometimes blended with Roman Catholic beliefs.

Spanish is the official language of Guatemala and the primary language of 60 percent of the population. For the rest of the population, the primary language is one of the more than 20 Mayan languages, including Cakchiquel, Quiché, and Kekchí. Many Mayan speakers also know Spanish.

In indigenous communities, most of the women and many men still wear brightly colored native dress. The typical rural family is industrious; men usually work the fields, while women care for the children and the household. Many women supplement the family income by selling produce and textiles and other handicrafts at markets. Their woven textiles carry designs and motifs that are unique to each community.

Poverty affects both urban and rural Guatemalans, but rural residents, including most of the Maya population, generally live under harsher conditions. More than 70 percent of rural residents are classified as living in extreme poverty, compared to 36 percent of urban inhabitants. Access to sanitation and health care is also limited in rural areas. Malnutrition affects a large number of young children.

After the collapse of Classic Maya civilization about ad 900, the Yucatán Peninsula became the center of the Maya world during the Post-Classic period (ad 900 to 1521). Those Maya who remained in the Guatemalan highlands never achieved the scientific or architectural magnificence of the Classic or Post-Classic city-states, but their civilization survived longer. When the Spaniards arrived in the 16th century, several populous nations of Maya descent, notably the Quiché, the Cakchiquel, and the Zutujil, occupied the Guatemalan highlands.

Guatemala's western highlands, stretching from Guatemala City to the Mexican border, are perhaps the most captivating and beautiful part of the entire country. The area is defined by two main features: the chain of awesome volcanoes that lines its southern side, and the high mountain ranges that dominate its northern boundaries, the greatest being the Cuchumatanes , whose granite peaks rise to over 3800m. Between the two is a bewitching pattern of twisting, pine-forested ridges, lakes, gushing streams and deep valleys.

Village life, for the most part, consists of backbreaking work in the fields. Most survive on subsistence farming, selling what little is left over. Entire families pack fruits, vegetables, and whatever else they have onto their backs and head to market. Market day, held at least once a week in most communities, is as much a social gathering as anything else.

The Mayans are known for being friendly, funny, welcoming of strangers, and shy. Living among them is an enchanting experience. There are about a dozen other villages scattered around Lake Atitlan. Some are Kaqchikel, some Tz'utujil.

Lake Atitlan is located three hours by car to the west of Guatemala City. It is reputed by its visitors and by its residents to be the most beautiful lake in the world. The author Aldous Huxley wrote "Lake Como, it seems to me, touches on the limit of permissibly picturesque, but Atitlan is Como with additional embellishments of several immense volcanoes. It really is too much of a good thing." Lake Atitlan draws thousands of tourists and vacationers every year and is home to the thirteen villages that ring its shores. The northern villages of the lake speak Kaqchikel. Along the southern shores of the lake, Tzutujil is spoken. The largest of the villages is Panajachel, which is known for its market. Many of the farmers and weavers of the lake villages travel weekly to Panajachel to sell their wares.

The lake is large, 18 x 12 kilometers (11 x 7.5 miles) at its widest point. Lake Atitlan is unusual in that it has no visible draining or runoff points. It is probable that the lake drains through a network of underground rivers and streams. Mornings at the lake are characterized by a calm, clear surface. However, in the afternoons, the xocomil, the "wind that carries away sin" rises up and makes travel on the lake treacherous.
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Livestock are a valuable commodity in the mayan village countryside.

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 > Livestock are a valuable commodity in the mayan village countryside.
Livestock are a valuable commodity in the mayan village countryside.

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